After our adventures in Busan and Jeju we moved on to the Capital – Seoul for just over 8 days.
Having managed to board the flight from Jeju – The ride took an hour, due to tailwinds instead of the 1.30hrs it was supposed to take – Surprisingly we still got food though!
From Gimpo Airport we got trains to Our AirBnB in Hongdae it was the first time we took trains for a full journey as we had only taken one train in Busan. It was a little confusing but we managed it, with suitcases and bags – as well as a coffee, of course!
We emerged up the flights of stairs to find ourselves in the Area of Hongdae and walked down the main road to find our accommodation for the week.
Our AirBnB – Link Here
Our home for the week was a two bedroom airy apartment on the 1st floor of a block. The rooms were bright and colorfully decorated with a mix of cool little trinkets. There was a washing machine, a hob, everything that we needed, even a couple of K-pop albums that we could peruse. Including a fridge in the larger of the bedrooms.
Later we went to explore and get food, Red Road and Hongshik University.
Directly opposite where we were staying was Red Road – The creative, artistic and retail area. At the upper end there is the Busking areas – where you can catch signed groups as well as dance groups and pre debut acts perform – toward the end of the day and late into the night.
The whole of Red road has two little mascots who pop up here and there in various poses.
There a Photo booths galore, Giant Norebang (Karaoke) buildings with open fronts so you can watch the singers as they scream their hearts out.
Day 1
After not being able to go to the Aquarium in Busan – we decided to book online for the one in Seoul, as we were heading in that direction anyway.
We traveled to the COEX Mall – one of the most famous shopping malls in Seoul. The main attraction is the Starfield Library – a famous location if you have watched any K-dramas and one that Bob had on her ticklist to visit.
Ultimately it is an open plan area with a Art installation in the center surrounded with floor to ceiling bookshelves filled with countless books from all over the world. There are a couple of coffee shops around – which we did sample then on to the Aquarium.
Coex Aquarium – home to over 40,000 fish – it is part of the Sea Life company, which means they are pretty similar world wide. Some of the tanks and enclosures were better than others but for the most part it was all pretty good! There was a larger space so there was a lot more to see and do. Including waterside creatures – Beavers, Otters and even Capybaras.
Once out of the Aquarium we passed countless Sashimi restaurants – clearly looking at the fish sparked an appetite for most – however we bi-passed that and headed towards a Vegan restaurant (review coming soon)
Once our appetite was sated we went on the hunt for some K-pop albums which lead us outside the Mall and into the beginning of Gangnam.
Where we saw the statue of Psy’s Gangnam Style hands – we should have explored a little more but knew the shops would shut soon. So we headed to one of the larger K-pop shops K-town4u – tbh it wasn’t all that great only really focused on the big sellers (BTS, Blackpink etc) and they were closing up by the time we got there so we only had a brief look knowing it was no the end of our music hunt.
As the sun went down we headed to the last location of the day – Bongeunsa Temple – which was pretty amazing in the night time.
Day 2
With yesterday’s failure to find our K-pop albums we headed to Myeongdong to do some shopping. We came out of the train and stayed in the station – because believe it or not, two of the best K-pop shops are under here.
Myeongdong CD shop and CT Records are fully stocked with albums from pretty much anyone you have heard of – with some minor exceptions. We picked up a fair amount of albums and headed on to do some more shopping.
We popped in and out of shops for pretty much the rest of the day, grabbing a coffee, looking for some plushies and just generally browsing – bought a couple of things along the way then headed back to the apartment to get ready for the night time.
When night came we went to Tent City – which is a long stretch of road that fills to the brim with chairs and tables, people drinking, eating and generally having fun. It was good to finally experience this – as we have watched many a drama with tent city involved. We met our friend there ate and drank some and then got a guided tour of some of the places we hadn’t got to see yet. We went to one final pub and then called it a night.
Day 3
Friday came and we decided on the hottest day thus far that we would spend the day exploring the palaces and the Hanok village in full traditional dress. We rented our Hanboks from Gowoonsol Hanbok. There was a large selection to choose from and two ladies who were very swift but attentive to attend to us – The rental included Hanboks, Hair styling, Hats and bag for 4 hours.
We started at Gyeongbokgung Palace and walked around all the surrounding Gates and residence and even saw the last section of a flag ceremony.
We walked around the National Folk Museum and then up to the Blue house – which we couldn’t get into without paying extra and providing full passports etc – we decided we didn’t have the time so then headed to the Bukchon Hanok Village.
The Village is a traditional style of home but now lived in a modern way – so there are ring doorbells etc- there was a really nice coffee shop where we got some drinks to save us from the heat! We now have a deep respect for anyone who wore Hanboks during Summer in the past or even during filming now – wow it was hot! On our way to Changdeokgung we passed all the fashion students working in the workshops creating their collections. It was a nice little section of random calm.
Once at Changdeokgung Palace we wandered for a bit, Bob headed to the Secret Garden as Ash needed to take break due to his Knee. Bob could have spend all day here but we were running short on time so the exploring would have to wait for another day when we weren’t dressed up. We pretty much sped walked back to the shop – running a little late but we made it.
After that we headed to another Vegan Restaurant (Review next week)
We then walked to Ssamziegil market in Insadong which had lots of interesting little shops but we ran out of time as it closed at 9pm, so with all of that done we headed back.
Day 4
Saturday – was Hoshi’s Birthday and clearly it was all that everyone in Hongdae (red Road) were concerned about, so there were posters everywhere, Happy Birthday signs, Photo booths rented out and Cup Sleeve events all around the district – But who is Hoshi? He is a member of Seventeen, the KPop Group!
We decided to head up Red Road because we had seen that another Kpop Group, Billie were playing as part of the KPop Playground festival. We took another walk up the long road of shops, bar and the rest and soon discovered, not only Hoshi’s special Day but also there was a whole mass of events taking place all along the way. At the top we found a stage area in the large busking area near the Campus of Hongshik University, where the girl group were due to play, but it wasn’t just a concert, but also a Dance Challenge. But it wasn’t due to start for a while so we – yep you’ve guessed it – went to get coffee, in a lovely little place (which we will tell you about next week). Then headed back to the barrier to get a good view of the proceedings, ready for the start.
What is a Dance Challenge you may ask? Well, it’s a big thing in the KPop World, mostly among kids and teenagers but not limited to them, on this occasion it was open to anyone from 4 to 24 it seemed. There is an open space and the ‘kids’ wait around it and a well known KPop song starts to play and everyone rushes in to get a good position and start to dance the set routine that everyone (who watches KPop videos and performances) knows . It is amazing to watch over 100 people instantly recognise and start to dance the same movements and it’s funny how many we knew, though we weren’t going to join them! The Challenge went on for a couple of hours, interspersed with a couple of Professional Dance Companies dancing full routines to well known songs and in the case of HollyBang even their own song, the amazing (according to Bob)- Boobiboobiboobi – which is of course all about bums!!
Billie played a set of their known songs, which at first we weren’t sure of but it was surprising how many of their songs we knew. In all it was all good fun and it was over just as the rain started.
We set off to find food and after wandering around the local Anime Stores and heading up further we sort out the little vegan café with some interesting decor! The Drunken Vegan is a tiny place with only about 4 tables and a limited menu, but it was the items on the wall for sale that got our attention (that might be the wrong term) the walls are lined with a colourful selection of Dildos and other ‘Toys’. including an Eiffel Tower. One Chinese girl asked if they were meant to use them during their meal! It might of made for interesting dinner viewing but it wasn’t a requirement! But more in the food post next week.
We wanted to see if we could get a tattoo while there and went to one of the local shops, who sent us to a dark and dodgy apartment block where the rudest, most arrogant, pig of a man shouted at us, called us names and was generally horrid for an hour, so obviously we left asap.
We ended our day trying to find a bar that sold alcohol without requiring us to order large amount of Pork Belly to grill on the open grills in the middle of the tables, this proved somewhat difficult, but eventually we found the only ‘Craft Beer’ Pub in Hongdae, a little place on the 2nd floor up a long flight of stairs, The interior consisted of many little booths, with curtains across them giving you a private drinking area, it was double deckered and quite comfortable. We settled in to Nachos with Soju and Beer and finished off the day there.
We had been invited to go to Itaewon with our friend, but we didn’t want to spend the night ignoring everything Korean in favour of standing in Jerry’s American Bar listening to Hair Rock and Oasis, we were there to experience Korean Culture, we can get Bon Jovi and The Beatles back home!
Day 5
Sunday was a busy day, we started off the day heading to Ansan Mountain and the Café Pokpo to see the Hongjecheon Artificial Falls. A Long bus journey but we found the Coffee Shop under the motorway and the dramatic vista opposite, unfortunately so did the 100’s of other people, going on Sunday morning was clearly the wrong time to visit. Again see the coffee review, but we had our drinks then walked across the river and up a bit of Ansen Mountain, before leaving, because we had an appointment.
We headed back to Hongdae and to Badhobby Tattoo Studio to get the ink we tried to get the night before, this guy was a delight, charming, friendly and Bob thought ‘Dreamy Looking!’ The experience was something else too, quick and actually completely pain free! You all know Tattoos hurt to some degree or another and whether you feel a lot of pain or little there is discomfort, but this honestly was completely pain free, it was weird and he was quick too, the pair of us were ‘inked up’ and out of there in an hour.
Next up we headed towards The N Seoul Tower, with a bit of a Detour on our way. One of the few things Ash had seen before going to Korea that wasn’t already on Bob’s extensive list was SunnyBread Bakery, a lovely coffee shop, with a large seating area and all vegan and gluton free bakery. We followed the Naver map and sought out the shop, but what we found was a little upstairs café with no outside space and filled with loud American Mums, a mass of prams and screaming babies. Sunny the owner was there and was lovely, but the place was not what was advertised or quiet and pleasant, so we ordered a pair of drinks and left – quickly! Coffee Review to come!
From here we had a plan, we went on a mission and headed all the way back across the river to Vampire Chicken in Gangnam, we probably could have done this better but we didn’t, we really wanted Fried Chicken and this place does Vegan and Non Vegan versions. By the time we had the food in hand and were heading back it was already dark. While heading back up to the mountain and theCable Car Lift we passed a TV Crew filming a car scene on the side of the road. we have no idea what show as of yet!
The view from the Cable Car was dramatic in the darkness with the cityscape illuminated by all the lights, at the top we were welcomed by the queue of 100’s of people waiting for the lifts to get down, we climbed the stairs up and found the tower was illuminated Blue – different colours mean different weather conditions apparently! Here we sat and ate our Chicken and Spoiler alert ahead of the review post – it was delicious! We wandered around and we added a lock to the masses of others on the fences, a tradition seen in many places in the world but started here!
Then we realised what comes up must go down and we began the trek back down the mountain. By the time we reached the end we decided to grab a cab the rest of the way back.
Day 6
The next day we decided to go to Cheonggyecheon stream or as we name it “Camera thief stream’ due to the drama Lovestruck in the city. On our way there we noticed that there was another K-Pop festival that would start at 7pm – so we knew what we were going to do that night. For the moment though we grabbed a coffee and walked down the stream – stopping every so often to take some photos, dip our feet in to the river and watch the fish.
After a couple of hours of walking we stopped when we got to the exit leading us to Lotte world department store where we bought another coffee and looked at the shops. Ash bought a customisable top from Nike in partnership with New Jeans – now an official Bunny. Bob looked at the albums and laughed at the fact one photocard was 450,000 won – it wasn’t even a rare one! We walked across to the DDP market and looked at the funky shaped culture building before heading back on the bus to attend the concert.
We got to the Gwanghwamun Plaza at 6pm ready for the Jeonnam Tourism meet for the deep – where we stood with a couple of hundred others for 2 hours till 8pm for the spectacle to begin. There were talks, performances from children, sports and then ending with a couple of K-Pop performances from Highlight, W24, KoN and Kiss of Life. We watched the whole event that eventually wrapped up at 10.30pm.
By this stage we were starving and headed back to Red Road to find some late night food.
Day 7
The next day we had planned to return to the Changdeokgung Palace to see the Garden this time without being dressed for the occasion. We found out once we arrived that this was not possible – you had to take a guided tour and only stay in the Garden for 10 mins at most. If you however were in costume you could take all the time you wanted – So we didn’t end up going. Bob made a desperate attempt to try and tick off some of the things she wanted to do but sadly it was not to be – with Ash’s knee we were stuck not climbing mountains, not going for a bike ride – maybe next time. We got on a bus and ended up taking a brief look at Yonsei university – which is where Bob had taken an online course and was enrolled in – so it was nice to see it in person.
From there our plan was to go to Han River next but on our way Ash had found out that one of his Kpop artists had a new album out – so we went back to Myeongdong to look. It turns out after 3 hours of searching the album wasn’t out till the next day and by the time we found this out it was too late to go to the Han River as we needed to get back and pack.
Day 8
The last day – we messaged the Airbnb host to find out if it was possible to leave our suitcases for as long as possible as check out time was at 11am, the next renters were at 4pm and our flight was 7pm. She very nicely said we could keep our suitcases there till 3pm – which we did. We took that time to return back to Myeongdong one last time and buy the album that we couldn’t find the day before. Then we headed back to the apartment – picked up our suitcases and that is where we found out that our internet had decided to stop working at exactly midnight the night before – why we don’t know! So we went to the twosome place for a coffee and to sit and use the free wifi.
Then after figuring out our route we made our way to the airport – where Bob was sad to be leaving and felt as though she was leaving a part of herself behind.
We played a scene somewhat like this
Then we boarded the flight to Japan.
Well that was our first adventure in Seoul – Bob says first because she knows she will return!
Climbing Moss 